,Love India as it is and India will love you. OM NA MA SHIVAYA.’
The Journey begins - 6400 km through India to places you will find in no travel guide. It is winter and it rained last night. On the Ring road in Delhi is Aksa dham Mandir. The first Photos are taken and until Haridwar India shows, she is not like anybody else.
The Hotel Alaknanda under the shade of Shivalik Hills and the Bank of Ganga is our first home. The winters in Haridwar are quite cold and chilly. The temperature can fall to as low as 3-4 degrees Celsius. In the evening the first meditation on the Bank of Mother Ganga, next morning a walk to Har-Ki-Pauri. The sacred ghat was constructed by King Vikramaditya in the memory of his brother Bhartrihari. The golden reflection of floral diyas in the river Ganges is the most enchanting sight in this sacred City. Near Gauri Shankar Temple starts the ropeway to the Chandi Devi Mandir. The temple on the top of the Neel Parvat on the other bank of river Ganges was constructed in AD 1929 by Suchat Singh, the King of Kashmir at that time. Red and gold of Chandi Devi herself. And her beautiful smile! Green and blue when viewed from the top! River Ganga, the city of Haridwar and the Shivaliks – a stretch of different shades of blue blending into green. The temple has the privilege of being counted among the popular Shaktipeethas (Hindu sites of special mythological significance) in the Northern India. Due to the belief that whoever pays a visit to the temple gets his/ her wishes fulfilled by the blessings of Goddess Chandi Devi. The image installed at the temple is very ancient. The idol of the goddess is believed to be put up here around 8th century AD, by Adi Shankaracharya. We are doing Puja at this very special place. Slowly these spiritual tourists come in contact with our Indian Culture. In the afternoon we visit the Ashram of Narmada Puri, who came in the 1970s at the age of 24 from Germany to India and is running a spiritual place with her children.
It is the 3rd day in India and we are on the way to Devprayag and I explain the sign face of Mother Ganga. Devprayag is situated at an altitude of 475mts above sea level at the confluence of Alaknanda and Bhagirathi River. Devprayag is the last prayag(confluence) of Alaknanda River and from this point the confluence of Alaknanda and Bhagirathi River is known as Ganga. On the confluence of this two rivers the Chief Priest of Devprayag performs our Puja and everybody takes a bath.
The Hotel Alaknanda under the shade of Shivalik Hills and the Bank of Ganga is our first home. The winters in Haridwar are quite cold and chilly. The temperature can fall to as low as 3-4 degrees Celsius. In the evening the first meditation on the Bank of Mother Ganga, next morning a walk to Har-Ki-Pauri. The sacred ghat was constructed by King Vikramaditya in the memory of his brother Bhartrihari. The golden reflection of floral diyas in the river Ganges is the most enchanting sight in this sacred City. Near Gauri Shankar Temple starts the ropeway to the Chandi Devi Mandir. The temple on the top of the Neel Parvat on the other bank of river Ganges was constructed in AD 1929 by Suchat Singh, the King of Kashmir at that time. Red and gold of Chandi Devi herself. And her beautiful smile! Green and blue when viewed from the top! River Ganga, the city of Haridwar and the Shivaliks – a stretch of different shades of blue blending into green. The temple has the privilege of being counted among the popular Shaktipeethas (Hindu sites of special mythological significance) in the Northern India. Due to the belief that whoever pays a visit to the temple gets his/ her wishes fulfilled by the blessings of Goddess Chandi Devi. The image installed at the temple is very ancient. The idol of the goddess is believed to be put up here around 8th century AD, by Adi Shankaracharya. We are doing Puja at this very special place. Slowly these spiritual tourists come in contact with our Indian Culture. In the afternoon we visit the Ashram of Narmada Puri, who came in the 1970s at the age of 24 from Germany to India and is running a spiritual place with her children.
Asutosh is completely calm. He tells me: “it is so nice with you, Guru ji.”
Our next stop is Srinagar on the way to Badrinath. Usually nobody takes the time to stop there, but we do. Srinagar was formerly the capital of Garhwal before the arrival of British in the region. The unique Kamleshwar Mahadev Mandir, whose name is drawn from “Sri Yantra”, which means….. Since ancient times, is a centre of Divine Energy, a Siddha Peeth. In the compound of the ITB training center is Shankarmath. With its unique architectural beauty it is believed to be built by Adi Guru Shankaracharya. The central room of the temple has idols of God Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi made out of Shaligram Stone from Muktinath in Nepal.
It is already dark when we reach Rudraprayag at 8pm. The next day after Breakfast at 7 am we go for Koteshwar Temple, a noted Hindu shrine located at a distance of 3 km from the Rudraprayag town.
It is already dark when we reach Rudraprayag at 8pm. The next day after Breakfast at 7 am we go for Koteshwar Temple, a noted Hindu shrine located at a distance of 3 km from the Rudraprayag town.
This is a cave temple situated on the banks of the River Alaknanda. According to beliefs the Hindu deity Lord Shiva meditated in this cave on his way to Kedarnath and the idol was formed naturally. After reaching the place, one has to walk down a gentle slope to reach the bank of the river. The cave is situated on your left just few steps above the bank. Water is tickling down the walls of the cave and no one knows the source of the water. The priest from the cave tells us that Alaknanada visits the cave 3 times a year.
Kartikswamy is about 38 km from Rudraprayag on the Rudraprayag - Pokhri route. Kanak Chauri is a village from where a 3 km trek leads to Kartikswami. A series of hairpin bends quickly lift you high above the Alaknanda Valley. You are now cruising on a high ridge, curtained by a deep forest, pines giving way to oaks and rhododendrons along the way and our Tempo Traveler sounds like a Truck. The steep, terraced hillside is full of a lush green crop of wheat, and the small villages along the way overflow with mustard fields. Finally after a curve appears a small hamlet, Kanakchori, which is the starting point of a rather stiff climb of 3 kms to the Swami Kartik temple, perhaps the only temple dedicated to Kartik in these parts. Standing atop Karonch Hill you find the temple dedicated to Lord Shiva's son Kartikeya.
This climb should not be done with an empty stomach, but with 10 packets of Maggi and one Cauliflower from the local store my dish is ready in half an hour. The trek is a nice one, snow is on some spots and it is quite chilly through the thick pine forest with a gentle slope.
With great joy in our hearts we go downhill to our vehicle, and reach Karnaprayag at 8 pm, one of the five confluences of Alaknanda. Karnaprayag is a beautiful place of confluence of Pindar and Alakananda – the two rivers whose water flow into Ganga. Alakanada, merged with Mandakini at Rudraprayag, finally meets Bhagirathi at Devaprayag further down, close to Rishikesh and is known as Ganga from there. Karnaprayag, however, is not only a beautiful place but also an important pilgrim place for the Hindus.
A new morning in the Himalayas: today we go from Garhwal to Kumaun. At Simli on the Pindari River we pass the very old Chandi temple, a cold wind blows from the river on this clear winter morning.
A few km ahead we stop in Adi Badri, a pilgrimage centre of local importance. The main temple is dedicated to Narayan and has a raised platform in a pyramidal form. Within the temple a black stone idol is installed. It is believed that these temples, dating to the Gupta age, were sanctioned by Adi Shankaracharya who wanted to spread the tenets of Hinduism to every remote corner of Hindustan.
Lunch time in Chaukhutia, a small town located on the banks of Ramganga: We see the ruins of ancient forts and remains of the Katyuri dynasty and pay a visit to the Kali and Vaishno Devi temple.
Dwarahat, located at a height of 1,530 m, is about 39 km north of Raniket. The Dwarahat temples are divided into eight distinct groups, constructed in the IndoAryan style. There is a temple on top of a hill, called Maa Dunagiri Temple, located at a distance of 20 km from the central part of Dwarahat. According to legends, the hill on which the temple is situated was brought to this place by Hanuman. To reach the temple, 500 steps have to be climbed. From the ancient times, places such Drongiri (Dunagiri), Badrinath, Kedarnath have been known as Soul of Gods (Devatma) of the Himalaya, since these places are also the meditation spots (asanpeeth and sadhna-sthali) of many realized souls.
Four our worldly needs however we stop for a night hold at Hotel Shivalik at the River Ramganga in Kosi. The son of the owner there is a very gentle and well educated young Himalayan kumaoni. Early morning breakfast, outside it is a typical rainy Himalayan winter day. There is a big coldwave in whole northern India and fog and cold day conditions are causing rain and snowfall in the higher Himalayan belt. Today we go to Katarmal Sun Temple. The government had built a new road until there, then after 5km of asphalt road a new caterpillar road on the left leads us further, not the best for a Tempo Traveller. This small road with muddy curves of a steep climb requires immense steering. The view continues to be enchanting – mountains, deodar trees and droplets from the rain shower still clinging on green leaves. This place does not see many visitors.
Four our worldly needs however we stop for a night hold at Hotel Shivalik at the River Ramganga in Kosi. The son of the owner there is a very gentle and well educated young Himalayan kumaoni. Early morning breakfast, outside it is a typical rainy Himalayan winter day. There is a big coldwave in whole northern India and fog and cold day conditions are causing rain and snowfall in the higher Himalayan belt. Today we go to Katarmal Sun Temple. The government had built a new road until there, then after 5km of asphalt road a new caterpillar road on the left leads us further, not the best for a Tempo Traveller. This small road with muddy curves of a steep climb requires immense steering. The view continues to be enchanting – mountains, deodar trees and droplets from the rain shower still clinging on green leaves. This place does not see many visitors.
It is the second most important temple dedicated to the Sun God in the country after the Konark Sun Temple in Orissa. The temple complex is 800 years old, and the main temple is surrounded by 45 smaller temples. The temple was built in the 9th century by the Katyuri king called Katarmala. The shrine, perched at an elevation of 2116 m above sea level, is east-facing. It is built in such a way that the first ray of the sun falls on the Shiva lingam enshrined in the temple. Everybody of us is making Surya Namaskar at this special place.
Katarmal’s Sun temple is a surprise encounter with history.
The rain stops and we come safely to the main road to go for Jageshwar. Soon, however, it starts again and all the way the rain is drumming on the roof of our Tempo Traveller, and on the way to the Temple it even mixes with snow. Jageshwar is a religious town having more than 100 temples dedicated to Lord Shiva situated at an elevation of 1,870mts above sea level.
The temples were built in the time between the 9th and 13th century AD, with many of them preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The main temples of Jageshwar include Dandeshwar Temple, Chandi-ka-Temple, Jageshwar Temple, Kuber Temple, Mritunjaya Temple, Nau Durga, Nava-grah Temple, a Pyramidal shrine, and Surya Temple. Mrityunjaya Temple is the oldest and Dandeshwar Temple is the largest shrine of Jageshwar.
In the Mritunjaya Temple we are performing the full puja – it is deeply satisfying and I note that it uplifts all members of our group as well.
On the way to Bhowali we cross the Ashram of Neemkaroli Baba in Kainchi.
At night we stay in the GMVN Tourist Bungalow of Bhowali. It is a very cold night, even in the room it is hard to breathe. One of the famous attractions here is Golu Devta Temple, which is always in the news for the unique rituals performed here. Golu Devta is believed to have been an incarnation of Gaur Bhairav (Shiva). It is a common experience that usually decades get wasted fighting court cases in search of justice. Devotees make their offerings at this templeby using stamp papers to seek the desired decree in litigations before the idol of Golu Devta.
He is worshiped all over the region and regarded as the dispenser of justice by devotees.
From here we have an inspiring view of Bhimtal Lake, one beautiful creation of nature. This lake has a natural beauty and picturesque view of clear water as well as surrounding natural exquisiteness. It contains a diminutive island at its center surrounded with hills.
With chanting of OM NAMO BHAGAVATE VASUDEVAYA, we say goodbye to the Himalayas and reach Haldwani in the plains of India.
A drive of 300km brings us to Sitapur in Uttrapradesh for night hold. The next day we decide to visit Dadhichi Kund, which is at about a distance of 25 km from Sitapur. Dadhichi Kund is in Mishrik, where the great sage Dadhichi Rshi bathed in the waters of the holy tank before giving his bones and his mortal life.
The approximately 20km to Naimisaranya, our next stop, are quite challenging. This is rural Uttarpradesh driving on a single road, perhaps here you find the worst roads of the country. The name of Namisharanya Tirth comes from the Naimisha Forest. The story regarding the importance of this forest is that after the great battle of Mahābhārata, sages and saints, who were very much concerned about the beginning of Kali yuga, told the Srimad Baghavd Gita to the king Paraksheet, the last heir of the Pandavar dynasty. Anyone who fasts, prays, and attains perfection at Naimisaranya finds happiness in all the worlds. One priest-guide accompanying us recites Sankalpam and we take a holy bath in the Chakra Tirtham. From there we proceed to the temple of Lalitha Devi and after worshipping the Goddess further on to the banks of Gomati River, where there is a huge Banyan Tree. The place is called Vyas Gaddi from where the Gaddi Sage Veda Vyas is told to have taught Vedas and Puranas to his Sishyas and the general public. It is said that Mahabharatam and Bhagavatam were recited at this place.
OM TAT SAT OM TAT SAT OM TAT SAT
It is a 200 Km drive to Ayodhya, where we are heading next. There is a lot of traffic because it is Kumbha Mela time. But we reach safely and find a hotel, the best in town they tell us. For the next morning we arrange one guide for this narrow holy town. This Holy Place is situated on the south bank of the river Saryu and is considered as the birth place of Lord Ram, the seventh incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Ayodhya is a city of temples and is an important pilgrim place for Hindus in India. It is a cool winter morning, and we take a holy dip in the River Saryu exactly at the spot where Lord Ram was taking bath. After this ritual, our guided tour begins.
Rama Janma Bhoomi is believed to be the birthplace of Lord Ram. Previously there used to be the Babri Mosque, which was constructed in the 15th century by the Moghuls. Later in 1992 the mosque was destroyed, and at the present time there are plans to build a grand Rama Temple here.
There is an ancient Lord Shiva temple, known as Nageshwar temple. In addition to these temples, there are some famous temples like Darshneshwar Mahadev, Hanuman Garhi, and Kanakeshwar Mahadev.
At noon on 8th Feb. we leave for Varanasi, a distance of 188km. In the evening we reach Assi ghat in Varanasi, and again you feel it is Kumbh time. At the end we got one very good place at Samne ghat 1.5Km from Assi Ghat with the help of one local friend. Varanasi is built in a half-moon shape on the left bank of the Ganges, where the river abruptly veers northwards. It is said that Varanasi resides on the Trishul (Trident), the weapon of Lord Shiva, and will not get destroyed even during Pralaya (end of the world). Kashi, as Varanasi is also called, is Moksha puri (the city of ultimate liberation). People believe that the one, who is graced to die at Kashi, attains liberation and freedom from the cycle of re-birth. Assi Ghat as an important ghat of Varanasi traditionally constitutes the southern end of the city. On this early morning there is an excellent view on the more than 80 Ghats of Varanasi. We hire a boat along the Ghats.
Throughout the day, on these Ghats, we can see daily life carried on as it has been in India for thousands of years. We see many pilgrims that have arrived from the remotest villages, taking a bath that will wash away their sins and performing their worship ceremonies. Dashaswamedh Ghat is the busiest and the most ancient referred to ghat. Lord Brahma (”the creator” in the Hindu trinity gods) performed the ten-horses sacrifice (dasa-asvamedha) at this site. The temple of Shooltankeswar, Brahmeswar, Varaheshwar, Abhaya Vinayaka, the Ganga (”goddess”), and Bandi Devi are close by at the top of the ghat. Varanasi is a multicoloured and paradoxical city, they say, Kashi, the most holy city in India, which has played a vast role in the history and development of Indian civilization. It is its religious and cultural capital, a city only comparable in importance to Rome, Jerusalem or Mecca. Also known as Banaras it symbolizes and embodies, like these other cities, a whole civilization, the culture and aspirations of an entire people. From the genesis of known history, the name Kashi strikes a vibrant chord in the Hindu soul. After a bath in holy Ganga we take a walk through the narrow streets to Kashiviswanath Mandir.
There are a wide number of shopping places in Varanasi. I leave the group to Asutosh who will guide them through the market; I go back to our hotel.
The next morning everybody is in high spirit and dressed in new Indian style clothes, ready for the Maha Kumbha Mela, a drive of 135 Km will lead us to the largest gathering of people for a religious purpose in the world. Every 12 years, when the sun, moon and Jupiter meet in a special constellation, a parallel world arises at the gates of the otherwise quiet northern Indian city of Allahabad. There a sea of tents with millions of people emerges along the sandy shores of the Ganges and Yamuna rivers. The largest and most important bathing day will take place tomorrow, when between 30 and 40 million people are expected to plunge into the holy water to wash away their sins.
We are not allowed to enter with the vehicle, so we have to walk to “Pushkar Kalsa” in Sector 7 Muktimarg Bharataj Chowk, the phone network is not working or overloaded but after some time spent with searching we reach finally at our camp of Sree Mahant Brijmohandas, a very old friend since the beginning time as a Sadhu.
On 10th February Mauni Amavasya at 3.30 am we leave our camp for the Sangam, the confluence of the Ganges and Yamuna. It was still dark and street lights were on. There was no fog but, there was a chill in the air. It is a long walk about 7Km and millions have the same idea. In the waters of the Ganges and Yamuna, class and caste barriers disappear. Everyone seeks the same experience - the holy dip during the holy period. O yes, what a moment when we got it! It was at 10.30 in the morning, when all of us got this experience of a lifetime.
We are not allowed to enter with the vehicle, so we have to walk to “Pushkar Kalsa” in Sector 7 Muktimarg Bharataj Chowk, the phone network is not working or overloaded but after some time spent with searching we reach finally at our camp of Sree Mahant Brijmohandas, a very old friend since the beginning time as a Sadhu.
On 10th February Mauni Amavasya at 3.30 am we leave our camp for the Sangam, the confluence of the Ganges and Yamuna. It was still dark and street lights were on. There was no fog but, there was a chill in the air. It is a long walk about 7Km and millions have the same idea. In the waters of the Ganges and Yamuna, class and caste barriers disappear. Everyone seeks the same experience - the holy dip during the holy period. O yes, what a moment when we got it! It was at 10.30 in the morning, when all of us got this experience of a lifetime.
OM NA MA SHIVAYA.
The next morning we manage to get our Tempo Traveller in the Camp and start a tour through the Mela. It is the world's largest human gathering. It is fully equipped with mobile clinics and mobile cellphone poles, with streets, bridges, electricity lines and sewage pipes connected to more than 35,000 toilets as well as with shops and centers for missing people. Kumbh Mela is the most religiously important event for Hindus. The temporary camp that accommodates millions of people is built just for the Mela. Many come to stay for the whole time and take part in religious discussions, devotional singing, mass feeding of holy men, women and the poor, and to take part in religious assemblies. But besides the thousands of Hindus who steadfastly attend every Kumbh festival, many other famous saint groups take part in the festival, such as the Naga Sadhus, Mahatyagis, Mahamandaleswars and Kalpavasis. The Kumbh, I figured, is a good way to watch the Hindu faith in action. We saw it all - sadhus, prayers, rituals and especially the Ganga upon which much of the Hindu faith is based.
After fourteen days on Tour to the Soul of India, our next destination is going to be Chitrakuta, a place of prime religious significance. On the way the traffic indicates already that Chitrakut will be full of pilgrims. Even the best place in town - the Tourist Bungalow - was full, it was not at all easy to find accommodation, and what we found was not the best. The spirit of the group was low; I try to explain the reason. There is one thing: “Except India as it is and India will love you.”
A forested hill, Chitrakuta is skirted all along its base by a chain of temples and is venerated today as the holy embodiment of Rama. Lord Rama is also known as Kamadnathji which literally means fulfiller of all wishes. Ram Ghat is a long stretch of steps made on the bank of Mandakini River. It is the most beautiful bathing ghat of the place and believed to be capable of absolving a person from all his sins. It is believed that Lord Ram bathed here with Laxman and Sita Ji. The whole view here is amazing and full of emotions related to devotion. One just cannot wait to chant Ram Ram. There is a huge statue of Lord Hanuman in the middle of Ram Ghat. The whole Hanuman Chalisa as written by Tulsidas is inscribed in the stone on which this huge statue is placed. Now as far as I know, this statue is painted in dark orange color recently which makes it look even more beautiful. Gupt Godavari, a natural wonder, consists of two caves. It is about 18 km from Chitrakut and 10 km from Anasuya Atri Ashram. There is a tank known as 'Sitakund' in one of these caves which is perpetually fed by a small stream of water. It is believed that Ram and his brother Lakshman held court in the cave with a stream of water running along its base, since it features two natural throne-like rocks.
A new morning - a new destination! We are in Bundelkhand, which is deeply immersed into the romance of rugged forts and palaces, a legacy which still echoes all around the region. Stories of valor and chivalry, which are still in vogue, are the testimonials of the splendors of that by-gone era. Bundelkhand is known for its brave Bundela rulers who ruled over this region from fifteenth century AD onwards till the British conquered and annexed it into their dominion. Kalinjar, a fort situated on a high hillock in the Vindhyan ranges, had to be approached through seven gates or check posts before one could enter the main fort area. The Fort was subject to numerous wars. Mohammed Ghazni, Qutb-ud-din Aibak and Humayun, all invaded this stronghold of the Chandelas. It was Akbar who finally conquered it in 1569 and bequeathed it as a gift to Birbal, one of his "nine jewels". From Birbal it went to Chhatrasal, the legendary Bundela warrior and then to Hardev Shah of Panna. In 1812 it fell into the hands of the British.
300 meters of steep stairs from the top of the mountain leads to the Neelkanth Temple, built in a cave in the mountain face, which precedes the fort itself by a couple of thousand years or more. The entire construction came up around this ancient place of worship. The wide platform in front of its small entrance includes a mandapa with proud pillars that still stands, but which is now roofless. Priceless, ancient rock cut relics and carvings are scattered all around it.
The folk life of Bundelkhand is an incredible embodiment of an economical backward region of India due to failure of the central government. All along its length and breadth, Bundelkhand is richly studded with religious centres and historical sites, with a rich and colourful cultural life that is manifested in the diverse folk dances, music, songs, art, architecture and, of course, the fairs and festivals. At 4pm we arrive in Khajurao, the Ganesh Garden Villa is our home in a beautiful and peaceful environment. After dinner we see a Bundelkhand folk dance.
Khajuraho is not just another sleepy hamlet of India, but a tourist paradise where thousands of tourists every year throng the place. The 25 Indo-Aryan architecture styled temples do the explanation. Built over a span of 100 years, 950 AD to 1050 AD, in bursts of creativity, the Khajuraho temples have been inscribed on the World Heritage List for their outstanding universal value and human creative genius.
Sculptures on the outer walls of the temples are dedicated to the art of love as described in the Kamasutra and made immortal through the marvellous carvings capturing every little detail. These temples take one’s breath away. Surrounded with beautiful gardens and trees they are absolutely stunning temples, each one of which would have been an amazing tourist site by itself. Mission Khajuraho: Completed
Since Chitrakut we are on a single road heading towards Bijawar. Suddenly on the left there is a signboard that says ‘Jatashankar ‘– so let’s go. This place of worship is on the edge of the Panna national Park. Concrete steps lead up the rock face, the sounds of the rustic temple drums of some festive religious occasion resound from there. At the entrance of the rock face, some are beating the drums and many are dancing, the place is completely wet. There is a cave in the Rock face with a Shiva-lingam. It appears as a self-lingam, including Jraru. Lord Shiva sits and Jatashankar is here to make this a special place for a sacred pilgrimage. It is enthroned as Lord Shiva idol.
At Jatashankar everybody must go through a waterfall for dharsan of the Shivaling.
On the map we find a road from Bijawar to Damoh, the first 10Km a single road after that an unpaved road to Damoh and of course impassable during rains. This 70Km are some of the worst Road I’ve ever seen, not to imagine we are in Madhya Pradesh. 21 km after Damoh is Nohleshwar Shiv also known as 'Mahadev' and 'Nohleshwar'. It was built around 950-1000 AD.
In the evening, when we arrive in Bedaghat,it starts raining. From the main road we have to walk down to the waterfalls. The holy river Narmada plunges down with so much force that the area around it is covered with the mist (or smoke) of its water and hence the name Dhua.
A short walk from the waterfalls is a Chausat Yogini temple. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and his consort Goddess Parvati riding their divine vehicle Nandi. It seems it is a rare style. Yes! Even I have not seen any other temple with Shiva-Parvati riding Nandi. The temple has a circular courtyard and there are 64 (chausat) statues of goddesses (yogini) around. It has a beautiful architecture.
A short walk from the waterfalls is a Chausat Yogini temple. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and his consort Goddess Parvati riding their divine vehicle Nandi. It seems it is a rare style. Yes! Even I have not seen any other temple with Shiva-Parvati riding Nandi. The temple has a circular courtyard and there are 64 (chausat) statues of goddesses (yogini) around. It has a beautiful architecture.
On the way to Bramanghat the rain stops and the sun comes out and across the Bridge at Sat Dhara our groupmembers visit the Narmada. Hari har Baba Ji is living here on the banks of Narmada, a well respected Sadhu in India. Bramanghat, the confluence of the Narmada and Warahi rivers at Barmhan, is a sacred place and a large fair is held here every January. A number of temples have been constructed at Barmhan, and fine flights of steps lead up from the Narmada on the northern bank. The large temple on the southern bank of the river is called Rani Durgavati's. In the last 18 days we have travelled nearly 4500 Km.
This travel, by its spiritual nature, during which one faces more ‘routine breakers' like not being able to eat like at home, can be somewhat stressful, and a look in the face of our crewmembers tells me: Yes, it is so. It is already dark outside and we are on the road to Hoshangabad. Since heavy rainfall and visibility are getting worse, we park at some safe place; finally at 11 pm we arrive in Hoshangabad.
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The City is set on the banks of the Narmada River. Sethani Ghat is a 19th century construction along the banks of the river Narmada. The ghat was built after generous contributions by Jankibai Sethani from the Sharma family in Hoshangabad after devotees complained to her about the difficulty in getting to the river. Hence the ghat is named after her.
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The City is set on the banks of the Narmada River. Sethani Ghat is a 19th century construction along the banks of the river Narmada. The ghat was built after generous contributions by Jankibai Sethani from the Sharma family in Hoshangabad after devotees complained to her about the difficulty in getting to the river. Hence the ghat is named after her.
The next stop is Omkareshwar, today is the 18th of February and tomorrow is Narmada Jayanti. Situated on the banks of the Narmada, Omkareshwar is one of the 12 revered Jyotirlinga shrines of Shiva. Omkareshwar temple stands on a one mile long, half a mile wide island in the holy Narmada.
Narmada Jayanti evening is magical. The entire river and city are lit with candles. It all looks like a big birthday cake. And on the hill there was the symbol of Om ablaze. Fireworks going off and drumming and dancing was going on. People in India celebrate their beliefs like no other. A spectacular party for this ancient river! Narmade Har!
Narmada Jayanti evening is magical. The entire river and city are lit with candles. It all looks like a big birthday cake. And on the hill there was the symbol of Om ablaze. Fireworks going off and drumming and dancing was going on. People in India celebrate their beliefs like no other. A spectacular party for this ancient river! Narmade Har!
In the ashram 8Km downstream of Omkareshwar, everything is ready for the Yoga camp. Tents have been built as well as toilets, and a cook has been hired. After two days of enchanting Omkareshwar they arrive by boat.
The ashram is a place for a spiritual community, a conscious community family with safe and clean food and water, and some guidance for the yogic journey of its inhabitants. Ashram life emphasizes on an expansion of awareness. It enables one to overcome the Ego & gradually move towards a life of harmony. Ashram life stresses on dissolving the thinking I am this, I do that. It is a camp on the bank of Narmada, in absolute nature being hot during day time and a little cold in the night. This vision of yoga is also cyclic. The world and life are not designed statically, but in their actual reality of constant change. Therefore, since we change depending on the time of day and stages of our lives, according to the seasons, to the cosmic and planetary movements, a practice that is to be effective has to take account of these differences. Slowly the group members get involved in the daily work in the Ashram, and start to understand what integral Yoga means. In the middle of the Camp we visit a nearby Ashram, Mahatmas, and Temples. Days go by, 10 days of harmony, that all is one.
The ashram is a place for a spiritual community, a conscious community family with safe and clean food and water, and some guidance for the yogic journey of its inhabitants. Ashram life emphasizes on an expansion of awareness. It enables one to overcome the Ego & gradually move towards a life of harmony. Ashram life stresses on dissolving the thinking I am this, I do that. It is a camp on the bank of Narmada, in absolute nature being hot during day time and a little cold in the night. This vision of yoga is also cyclic. The world and life are not designed statically, but in their actual reality of constant change. Therefore, since we change depending on the time of day and stages of our lives, according to the seasons, to the cosmic and planetary movements, a practice that is to be effective has to take account of these differences. Slowly the group members get involved in the daily work in the Ashram, and start to understand what integral Yoga means. In the middle of the Camp we visit a nearby Ashram, Mahatmas, and Temples. Days go by, 10 days of harmony, that all is one.
The first of March, our Tempo Traveller is ready for one of the last steps of the Journey, Maheswar the destination of the day. The landscape around Maheshwar is typical of the Nimar plains which are drained by the Narmada. Very hot in the summers and warm during the winters, this undulating land is composed of red soil, which itself is derived from the ancient lava rocks that once covered the region. Maheshwar means the abode of Lord Shiva. It was built by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar and was the capital of her kingdom. Ahilyabai was gentle, fair minded and forthright in handling the affairs of the government. We settled at Narmada resort, a huge place touching the river. The resort has lovely gardens, from where it is a 20 minute walk alongside the river to the various ghats and finally to the Ahilya Fort. Looking down from Ahilya Fort, the view is both breathtaking and fascinating, the riverfront being a flurry of activity at all hours of the day. There are some pilgrims who would come to visit the temple and take a dip in holy Narmada.
The simplicity of the queen can be further seen at her so-called durbar hall, where she conducted the affairs of the state and held audiences with the average person. It is located on the verandah in her wing of the palace. The palace is a simple wood construction and shows her simple lifestyle, she spent the money instead on building temples. The famed Kashi Vishwanath Temple in Varanasi was built by her. She constructed temples, dharmashalas (guest houses) and baolis (wells) in Haridwar, Badrinath, Rameshwaram, Kanchi, Jagannath Puri, Pushkar, Nasik and Pune. She is even today depicted wearing a simple white sari, the same costume she used to wear while she was the queen. It is said that she possessed only three of these saris, all of which were woven by herself. Maheswar's temples stand high with spires reaching out to the sky. Their balconies and carved doorways are a sight worth it. One should not miss the Kaleshwar, Rajarajeshwara Vithleswarw and Ahileshwar Temples. A boat trip along the almost 2 km of riverfront, which has been paved in stone to give rise to a series of ghats, brings us back to the resort.
Kapileswar Mandir is situated on the banks of the Tapti and Panzara rivers. Along with the Narmada and Mahi Rivers runs the Tapti River covering an area of 724 km. Rising from the Satpura Range Of Southern Madhya Pradesh it flows towards the Maharashtra's Kandesh and East Vidharbha regions of the Deccan Plateau. On the Western side is the Gulf of Cambay and the Arabian Sea in Gujarat.
The Temple is situated above the Sangam, the view it offers of the river Tapti is inspiring. Because this place is downstream, the river is full of fresh blue water with greenery on both sides and makes for a great place to take pictures or just be and feel the breeze. Also this temple on the riverbanks was reconstructed in the 17th century by Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore.
Located on the confluence of two rivers, we reach the village Shirud in the Dhule District. This famous and popular temple, which is devoted to Goddess Kali, has been built in Hemadpanthi style. As per the legend, this temple was built in 1200 AD, and was later reconstructed at the time of the Maratha regime. Inside the temple is a powerful image of Kali worshiped by a Brahmin Family living nearby.
A mela is running since two days, when we arrive. In rural traditions melas or village fairs are gatherings where religious, commercial, cultural affairs are being combined. So there are tattoo makers sitting at the street with their tattoo machines in their hand and Lucresia, gets here Indian Name Lakhsmi tattooed on her forearm.
A mela is running since two days, when we arrive. In rural traditions melas or village fairs are gatherings where religious, commercial, cultural affairs are being combined. So there are tattoo makers sitting at the street with their tattoo machines in their hand and Lucresia, gets here Indian Name Lakhsmi tattooed on her forearm.
We reache Ellora in the evening and stay overnight in a resort nearby. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was built by Rashtrakuta Rulers. Ellora is famous for rock-cut architecture. It has 34 rock-sculpted temples created between the 4th and 9th centuries. There are 12 Buddhist, 17 Hindu and 5 Jain caves containing rock-cut temples and monasteries, it illustrates the spirit of tolerance that was characteristic of ancient India. Early morning we went to the caves.
Most notable is the Kailasanatha Temple which is a multi storied temple complex carved out of one single rock. It took over 100 years and four generations of kings to complete and it’s a monolithic masterpiece. It was conceived of as a replica of Tibet’s Mount Kailash. We spend half an hour wandering around Kailash. It is absolutely amazing!.
Most notable is the Kailasanatha Temple which is a multi storied temple complex carved out of one single rock. It took over 100 years and four generations of kings to complete and it’s a monolithic masterpiece. It was conceived of as a replica of Tibet’s Mount Kailash. We spend half an hour wandering around Kailash. It is absolutely amazing!.
The area of Ellora Caves, Grishneshwar Temple, and around is called Verul Khshetra. Grishneshwar (Ghushmeshwar) Temple is an ancient pilgrimage site revered as the abode of one of the 12 Jyotirlinga manifestation of Lord Shiva. The Grishneshwar Jyotirlinga shrine is located at a village called Verul. This ancient temple was re-constructed several times, once in the 16th century by Maloji Bhosale of Verul, and later by 18th century by Ahilyabai Holkar.
There is a small market outside which sells items for pooja and handicrafts at very nominal costs. The Temple is made out of red stone, and still there - strong and beautiful as ever. Halfway up the temple, Dashavataras are carved in red stone - beautiful to look at. There are also other beautiful statutes carved out. A court hall is built on 24 pillars. On these pillars there are wonderful carvings as well. The temple is quite peaceful and calm with very less crowd. The feeling we get here is, that peace and silence prevail here. It is one of the most peaceful and less crowded jyotirlingams I have ever seen. Males have to remove the shirt before going inside Garbagriha. We go inside the Garbagriha, have darshan, make Puja, chant OM NAMAHA SHIVAYA and can all feel a powerful energy. Everybody is in high spirit.
There is a small market outside which sells items for pooja and handicrafts at very nominal costs. The Temple is made out of red stone, and still there - strong and beautiful as ever. Halfway up the temple, Dashavataras are carved in red stone - beautiful to look at. There are also other beautiful statutes carved out. A court hall is built on 24 pillars. On these pillars there are wonderful carvings as well. The temple is quite peaceful and calm with very less crowd. The feeling we get here is, that peace and silence prevail here. It is one of the most peaceful and less crowded jyotirlingams I have ever seen. Males have to remove the shirt before going inside Garbagriha. We go inside the Garbagriha, have darshan, make Puja, chant OM NAMAHA SHIVAYA and can all feel a powerful energy. Everybody is in high spirit.
It is time to head to Nasik, a full stretch of 200 km of highway leads mainly through rural areas with just two towns in between. We are driving on Aurangabad Highway, which directly goes towards Nasik. The city resides on the banks of the holy Godavari River, which flows to the Bay of Bengal.
Nasik is famous for the past times of Lord Rama, the King of Ayodhya, who made Nasik his abode during his 14 years in exile. It is the same place where Laxman, by the wish of Lord Rama, cut the nose of Shurpnakha. Consequently, this place was named "Nasik" (from the Sanskrit word nasika). The Sita Gumpha caves, from where Sita was abducted by Ravana can also be found here. We go to Kapaleshwar temple, visiting this temple is equivalent to visiting all the jyotirlingams!!! This temple is one of the oldest temples on the ghats of the river Godavari. The absence of the idol of Nandi (the bull) is a unique feature in this Shiva temple. Legend goes to say that Lord Shiva made a mistake of killing a cow ("Gohatya"), to cleanse his sin, the Nandi told him to take bath at Ramkund at Nasik. Accordingly Siva took bath here & did japa. The Godavari river is one of the four locations for the Kumbh Mela, it becomes a convergence point for millions of spiritually enlightened seekers from all over the world. Numerous small temples and pilgrimage places dot the banks of the river. The main temple on the ghats is the Ganga Godavari temple. Ramkund is a sacred pond on the banks of the River, here Godavari takes a 90 degree bend. It is believed the Shri Ram took his bath daily at this place.
The Someshwar temple is locally known as a beautiful picnic spot surrounded by Greenery. Its beauty is enhanced by the Godavari river, which flows from here. The area is covered with greenery. There is a temple of Lord Shiva and Lord Hanuman on the banks of river Godavari along with temples of Lord Ram-Sita-Laxman and Shri Vishnu-Laxmi.
A 20 km drive leads us to Trimbakeshwar. We stay at the MTDC guest house on the way up to Brahmagiri mountain, there is a lovely garden which is very welcome in an otherwise crowded pilgrim place. Brahmagiri is the source from where the sacred river Godavari originates. The mountain is believed to be the form of Lord Shiva and hence climbing it was considered as a sin.
After breakfast we still decide to climb this mountain till Gangadwar. Gangadwar is the place where river Ganga (Godavari) first originates out of the mountain in form of a spring. The Brahmagiri trek follows steps, only having 600 steps to reach. On the half way is Shree Ram Teerth . We take some juice in the small shop besides the Ram Teerth, Finally we go to the origin of Godavari river also called as Gangadwar. After originating from Brahmagiri Mountain it disappears in the mountain and then again reappears in Gangadwar and goes back inside the mountain once again. We have to take one diversion for Gangadwar and another one to Guru Gorakshanath Cave. Guru Gorakshanath Cave is furthest from our starting point. Hence we decide to go there first. Guru Gorakhnath Cave is the cave where Guru Gorakhnath meditated. Then we head toward the next destination of our trek - the cave of 108 shivalingas. Here Gautam Rishi and his wife Ahilya worshipped 108 swayambhu shivalingas in a single cave. On top of Brahmagiri you are in for a breathtaking view of the beautiful valley and the whole town of Trimbakeshwar. The entire panorama looks like an airbrushed hallmark scenic greeting card. We go down carefully, have lunch and take rest in our hotel until 4 pm. In the afternoon we start for darshan at the Great Trimbakeshawar jyotrling.
The temple compound is littered with shops with the main entrance to the temple guarded by uniformed policemen. The entrance into the temple premises is a frisking affair and one cannot take one's mobile or any photographic equipment inside, it’s prohibited. The extraordinary feature of the Jyotirlinga located here is the Linga in the temple. It is in the form of a three faced embodying Tridev, Lord Brahma, Lord Vishu and Lord Shiva. Inside the temple dome, it’s almost dark and security guys just pull your hands to move forward even though you are not stopping in one place and moving constantly…might be it’s their habit now. As the Shivling is very down below the ground level, one can see it in the mirror which is located just above the Shivling. But even with the help of the mirror it is hard to find out the 3 parts i.e. Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh. At least I am not able to. Trimbakeshwar is unique in many ways. The architecture of the temple is eye-catching with sloping parallelepiped structure .Outside we sit and take some time for Mediation.OM NA MA SHIVAYA. When we return from the Temple we are informed that river Godavari after coming from the starting point can be seen in a kund called Kusavarta, it is known as the symbolic origin of the River Godavari. It is from this Kushavart that the river Godavari flows up to the sea. There are temples at the four corners of Kushavart. We visited the kund. There were many devotees like us, taking bath. In the evening we had a nice dinner in the garden of the hotel, following spiritual talks until late night.
After breakfast we still decide to climb this mountain till Gangadwar. Gangadwar is the place where river Ganga (Godavari) first originates out of the mountain in form of a spring. The Brahmagiri trek follows steps, only having 600 steps to reach. On the half way is Shree Ram Teerth . We take some juice in the small shop besides the Ram Teerth, Finally we go to the origin of Godavari river also called as Gangadwar. After originating from Brahmagiri Mountain it disappears in the mountain and then again reappears in Gangadwar and goes back inside the mountain once again. We have to take one diversion for Gangadwar and another one to Guru Gorakshanath Cave. Guru Gorakshanath Cave is furthest from our starting point. Hence we decide to go there first. Guru Gorakhnath Cave is the cave where Guru Gorakhnath meditated. Then we head toward the next destination of our trek - the cave of 108 shivalingas. Here Gautam Rishi and his wife Ahilya worshipped 108 swayambhu shivalingas in a single cave. On top of Brahmagiri you are in for a breathtaking view of the beautiful valley and the whole town of Trimbakeshwar. The entire panorama looks like an airbrushed hallmark scenic greeting card. We go down carefully, have lunch and take rest in our hotel until 4 pm. In the afternoon we start for darshan at the Great Trimbakeshawar jyotrling.
The temple compound is littered with shops with the main entrance to the temple guarded by uniformed policemen. The entrance into the temple premises is a frisking affair and one cannot take one's mobile or any photographic equipment inside, it’s prohibited. The extraordinary feature of the Jyotirlinga located here is the Linga in the temple. It is in the form of a three faced embodying Tridev, Lord Brahma, Lord Vishu and Lord Shiva. Inside the temple dome, it’s almost dark and security guys just pull your hands to move forward even though you are not stopping in one place and moving constantly…might be it’s their habit now. As the Shivling is very down below the ground level, one can see it in the mirror which is located just above the Shivling. But even with the help of the mirror it is hard to find out the 3 parts i.e. Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh. At least I am not able to. Trimbakeshwar is unique in many ways. The architecture of the temple is eye-catching with sloping parallelepiped structure .Outside we sit and take some time for Mediation.OM NA MA SHIVAYA. When we return from the Temple we are informed that river Godavari after coming from the starting point can be seen in a kund called Kusavarta, it is known as the symbolic origin of the River Godavari. It is from this Kushavart that the river Godavari flows up to the sea. There are temples at the four corners of Kushavart. We visited the kund. There were many devotees like us, taking bath. In the evening we had a nice dinner in the garden of the hotel, following spiritual talks until late night.
5 march 2013 destination Mumbai Airport
The easy route is Trimbakeshwar to Igatpuri via Bhandardara, perched at the banks of Arthur Lake offering a delightful view to its visitors. The Lake is surrounded by hillocks and the waters are very clam. The panoramic view of the Bhandardara and the Sahyadris can be enjoyed from the tallest peak in Maharashtra, Mount Kalsubai which is at an altitude of 1646 m above sea level. A one hour drive takes us through rustic roads and villages. And just beyond Igatpuri we are already on highway (NH3) to Mumbai, which brings us earlier than expected to the city. Juhu Beach is a good place to pass some time, while our Tempo Traveller is on parking for 80 rupees per hour: Yes, it is MUMBAI.
The Juhu beach is surrounded by the Arabian Sea on all sides. The beach is not crowded and we spend some nice time enjoying the free space in one of the densest cities in the world. Mumbai is a goldmine of superlatives: beside being one of the densest cities in the world it’s home to both Asia’s largest slum and the world’s largest and most expensive single-family home; and so on. Like New York, Shanghai, or Tokyo, Mumbai is one of those megacities perpetually at the forefront of the media’s collective mind, and these facts have been repeated over and over until they have come to shape many people’s superficial understanding of Mumbai. At 6pm we finally reach Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, and I say goodbye to all participants of the Journey to the Soul of India. Oh yes, I feel something in my heart, since Asutosh also leaves for his duty in the country he belongs to.
The Juhu beach is surrounded by the Arabian Sea on all sides. The beach is not crowded and we spend some nice time enjoying the free space in one of the densest cities in the world. Mumbai is a goldmine of superlatives: beside being one of the densest cities in the world it’s home to both Asia’s largest slum and the world’s largest and most expensive single-family home; and so on. Like New York, Shanghai, or Tokyo, Mumbai is one of those megacities perpetually at the forefront of the media’s collective mind, and these facts have been repeated over and over until they have come to shape many people’s superficial understanding of Mumbai. At 6pm we finally reach Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, and I say goodbye to all participants of the Journey to the Soul of India. Oh yes, I feel something in my heart, since Asutosh also leaves for his duty in the country he belongs to.
It was 35 days of high doses of India with Yoga Teachers, extravagant lovers, the snow clouds in the Himalaya, the mega event Kumbh, an ancient lifestyle time on the bank of Narmada, and last the Super, Hyper, Megacity Mumbai. Taking a Spiritual pilgrimage to India with Br. Narmadshankar is definitely not for everyone, but it shows the soul of this unbelievable place on earth. Some of them will never come back, but some might find themselves day-dreaming… wishing they were back there for more or forever.
It was a great and intense yatra in to this maha yatra of our lives.
ReplyDeleteLove you Guruji
Narmadehar
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this amazing account of your journey across India. Thank you very much for posting this. Oh, how i wished i was traveling with you. By the way, felt happy to know you were in my home town, Nasik.
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